The F2R roadbook has a handy little area inside the transmission area to keep your spare drive belt and cover strap.
The left zip tie is holding a drive belt. The right zip tie is holding the "spare lock" (a.k.a. cover strap). I left the "spare lock" in the bag so that I would know which is which. Gently fasten the zip ties so you don't pinch the belts.
This solution should keep them close at hand and protected from the elements until they are needed.
This Tech Tip is a supplement to our sensor cable routing tips.
If you are competing in a major rally, you're likely to want a backup odometer. That can be two ICO Rally VR Lights, or perhaps one ICO and the stock KTM computer.
Because sensor cable failure, due to rocks or trees, is the most common, we don't want to run both odometers off the same sensor. We want redundant sensor cables.
If you are riding a KTM, your front brake caliper bracket already has an M8x1.25 hole for the stock sensor cable. Some people just drill and tap another hole to install the second sensor. This modification should be performed only by a professional mechanic.
If you don't want to do that, you can always use the sensor bracket that is included with the ICO and attach it to your pinch bolts, like this:
If your bike does not include any stock pickups, like the CRF below, you can actually attach two ICO sensor brackets on the pinch bolts. Simple and effective. And they get covered by the disc guard on CRF's. We like to use magnetic brake rotor bolts (shown below) on bikes that don't have a magnet. It's cleaner than attaching the magnet with epoxy putty.
And remember, always carry a spare sensor cable on your bike. We like to leave them in a zip-loc bag and tape them inside the airbox.